| Sunday, January 14, 2007 |
| humble pie |
| today i was reminded that altho i might look the part of the surfer decked out in billabong and quiksilver apparel, i probably have no right to rock them legitimately. Went surfing today in the afternoon at Ala Moana after yesterday's late night tsunami warnings (cause by the Japanese earthquake) and was served a nice slice of humble pie. Waves were a little bit taller than what I'm used to, and for the brief spell that i was in the water, much more frequent. I'd look up and there would be a wave crashing over my head tossing me off my board and into an underwater spin into the rocks. Because I use an 8ft board, it's too long to duck dive into a wave (dipping myself and board underneath the water's surface and passing under the wave) and i haven't really gotten used to turtle diving (flipping myself underneath my board). In short, for a brief 15 minutes, i went what felt like a 15 round fight of getting knocked off my board and dinged up on rocks, swimming back to my board only to get knocked away again, flipping upside down from the sheer height of the waves. After 15, i admitted defeat and swam back in wearing my head down in shame. But if a year of hearing chumbawumba on the radio and on muchmusic (in what was it, 95?) did anything for me besides trying to convince me that drinking is an effective means to treat depression, it's that nothing ever's going to keep me down. That I need to dust myself off and try again/shake it off/Be a man, must be swift as the coursing river/move along move along just to make it through/walk like an egyptian. |
posted by DarrenGene @ 6:15 AM  |
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| 4 Comments: |
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ahahahaha as long as your cell phone is not taking your dives with you it's an improvment! haha
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watch out for that turtle again, cuz she may try to bite u and u don't have me there to save u from it
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hmm i dont know about the egyptian part but if anything the man in mulan is quite the role model. so being that you had some pie this weekend - what's your favourite type? =)
no worries you will be pro star soon! take cares! hope you dont get anymore sharp-toothed scares!
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waves are rough things but don't give up... i'm sure you'll be surfing like the pros in no time (especially if you keep going after tsunami warnings...)
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ahahahaha as long as your cell phone is not taking your dives with you it's an improvment! haha